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August 30, 2023

To Indonesia

Our initial destination in Indonesia is the port of Kupang on the island of Timor. A voyage of some 1400 miles from Port Moresby, we estimated a seven-day passage (with good winds, we can conservatively log 200nm per day). Once, we were intimidated by the prospect of sailing a long distance in the open ocean, but now that we have gained confidence in our skills and our vessel, we quite enjoy the journey. The water is a beautiful shade of turquoise and the sailing has been excellent. In fact, we just set a new personal best speed of 19.4 knots (we can do better, but we are trying to sail conservatively). We quickly settle into our routines and the miles and days fly by. Happily, we also caught two fish, a yellowfin tuna and a king mackerel. Before we know it, a week has passed and we are anchored in front of Teddy’s Bar in downtown Kupang.

We have probably mentioned previously that bureaucratic formalities are required every time we enter or leave a country, and the procedures are unique to each region. In most cases, we must interact with Immigration, Customs, and often Biosecurity. The protocol in Indonesia is particularly complex, and we have hired an agent who specializes in visiting yachts. Unfortunately, our agent is not located on site, and she has recruited a local contact as her person in charge (PIC). It turns out that this is his first time, and he does not speak English, so we cannot communicate with him. Predictably, our entry to Indonesia is a fiasco, but after two days of on-boat inspections and multiple trips to government offices, we are officially allowed entry to Indonesia.

Kupang is a vibrant and energetic port city. It is a common entry point for yachts visiting Indonesia, and it provides a nice spot to relax while we plan our next destination. Transportation around town is easy with numerous minibuses called bemos. Scooters and motorbikes choke the avenues, and driving seems to be nearly a contact sport. We are told that crime is very rare, and this is a relief after our time in Port Moresby. We have enjoyed our short time in Kupang, but we will depart tomorrow for Rinca and Komodo Islands to see the famed Komodo dragons.

August 24, 2023

Through the Torres Strait

If you look at a world map, you will notice that the Cape York Peninsula of Australia (its northernmost point) nearly touches Papua New Guinea. The narrow body of water that lies between the two nations is called the Torres Strait and spans less than 100 miles in breadth. The Torres Strait is not just narrow, it is also extremely shallow and is peppered with innumerable reefs and islets. Moreover, the Strait is fraught with swift tidal currents (which fortunately are tablulated in published tables). As a result, it is a quite hazardous region for nautical traffic. As we contemplate our passage, we recognize that we will have to dodge shoals as well as fast moving commercial traffic (tankers and container ships). Our strategy is to stay just outside the serpiginous shipping channel. After consulting the tide tables, we have selected an optimal time window for our passage to allow a favorable current. In order to arrive at the Strait “on time” we had to carefully coordinate our departure from Port Moresby.

We sailed well from PNG and arrived at the Bligh Entrance to the Torres Strait in the late afternoon. The conditions were lively with winds from the southeast in the 25 to 30 knot range and a two-meter following sea. We blasted along averaging 10 knots and nearly completed the entire passage before sunset. Along the way, we communicated with some of the commercial ships on vhf radio. The passage was both stressful and exhilarating. We have now entered the Indian Ocean. Next stop: Kupang, Indonesia.

August 22, 2023

Leaving Port Moresby

After completing our preparations and refueling, we cleared out with PNG customs and immigration. We then said goodbyes to our wonderful Danish friends on Rhumb Runner. They will be leaving today and heading to Australia before they make their way to Indonesia and Thailand for the winter. We first met up with the Rhumb Runners in Hiva Oa in French Polynesia, and we have greatly enjoyed their company, advice, help, and friendship. We wish them the best and hope to meet them again.

We enjoyed a fine dinner at the Yacht Club with our host Brian, and after a full night’s slumber, we awoke at first light, cast off our lines, and bid adieu to Port Moresby. Our next stop will be Kupang, Indonesia, some 1400 miles distant. But first, we must traverse the Torres Strait.

August 20, 2023

PNG

New Guinea is the bird-shaped island north of Australia and is recognized as the world’s second largest island (Greenland is first, and Australia doesn’t count since it is a continent). New Guinea is divided in two, the western half belonging to Indonesia, and the eastern half comprising the independent nation of Papua New Guinea (PNG). PNG has a long colonial history under rule of England and Germany. After WWI, PNG fell under the direction of Australia. PNG ultimately achieved independence in 1975. The PNG flag, designed by a 15-year-old schoolgirl is stunning and depicts the Southern Cross constellation on a black background diagonally across from a native bird of paradise in yellow on a red background.

PNG is a country that remained quite primitive and largely unexplored by Westerners until quite recently. While the coastal regions were initially settled, the mountainous interior was essentially untouched and cannibalism was widely practiced until late in the 20th Century. Belief in sorcery and witchcraft are widely held even today, and witch hunts (primarily directed against women, but also against men and children) continue to result in frequent episodes of violence (torture and death). Sociologically, it seems that the long history of tribal rivalries and feuds with violent retaliation is the root of the widespread crime reported in PNG (and particularly in the capital of Port Moresby). Coupled with police indolence and government corruption, there appears to be no solution to the problem of crime that plagues PNG. This is quite a tragedy, because the island is beautiful and endowed with abundant natural resources (natural gas, oil, copper, gold, etc.) that should allow for prosperity; instead, there is crippling unemployment. Very sad. We heard today that the 10 wealthiest people in PNG are all politicians. That says it all.

Anyway, we were fortunate to make the acquaintance of Brian Hull, an 85-year-old former Aussie and longtime PNG citizen who came at age 19 and stayed. Brian lives on a yacht at the Royal Papua Yacht club where we are currently ensconced. Brian is the second oldest member of the club and is the unofficial “greeter” for visiting yachts. Through his generosity, we were able to see the sights of Port Moresby in complete safety. We visited the Nature Park which houses the flora and fauna of the nation. As we traversed the park’s walk-through aviaries, we were delighted to see Kookaburras, Cassowarries, Hornbills, Cockatoos and Birds of Paradise. We also saw hordes of fruit bats, flying foxes, and tree kangaroos.

We next visited the National Museum and Art Gallery which is located adjacent to the Parliament House in Port Moresby. Although most of the collection resides in galleries in Australia, we were treated to a very well-organized display of diverse art representing the best of the nation.

On a more pedestrian note, we received a package from our boat manufacturer containing several items we needed for repair or replacement. We spent a couple days installing the items, and Leviathan is now ready to tackle the second half of our circumnavigation!

August 14, 2023

On to Port Moresby

We slipped effortlessly out of Luganville, Vanuatu on our way to Papua New Guinea. With the wind at our backs, we enjoyed another fast and exciting downwind sail, averaging over 10 knots of boat speed. We covered the 1240 nautical miles in 5.5 days. We needed to slow down during the final approach in order to allow for a daylight arrival.

Just after dawn, we entered the lagoon protecting Port Moresby via the sinister-named Basilisk Passage and anchored just outside of the Royal Papua Yacht Club, while we awaited permission to enter the marina to meet with customs and immigration. By early afternoon we were moored in our slip and cleared into the country. We are anxious to explore the country, but first, we will relax a bit and recover from the passage.

August 7, 2023

Vanuatu Wrap-Up

We power-reached Leviathan to our next stop on the island of Ambrym and anchored just off a beautiful black sand beach near the village of Ranon. This is another island with an active volcano, and the mountains are shrouded in mist, creating an eerie ambience. Despite a light drizzle, a local named Obed visited us in his outrigger canoe. We invited him aboard and we purchased a small rock carving. We then proposed a trade of fishing line and hooks in return for locally grown vegetables and fruits. He invited us to come ashore later to pick up the produce. So, we dinghied to shore and made our way to Obed’s home (asking locals for directions, “Where does Obed live?”). We met his wife and five of his seven daughters. We gave the kids candy, and they gave us a bounty of limes, cucumbers, and a cabbage from their garden. We met some other villagers and received a tour including a stop at the local grocery (which was quite bare). All were quite friendly and pleased to interact with foreigners.

The following day we sailed to our final island destination in Vanuatu, the island of Espirito Santo. We initially anchored in the spectacular Palikulo Bay where we spent the night. Our next stop was around the southeast corner of the island to Luganville, the second biggest city in all of Vanuatu. Luganville played an important role in World War II serving as a major base for American troops. On the way to our anchorage, we passed Million Dollar Point. As the story goes, following the war, the American military was looking to downsize their operations in the region and made an offer to France and England (who were co-managing Vanuatu at the time) to sell ships, planes, and naval equipment for pennies on the dollar. Thinking that they could simply get the equipment for free when the Americans left Vanuatu, England and France refused the offer. As a result, in a fit of pique, the Americans dumped everything of value in the ocean just off the point. Unintentionally, they created a wonderful scuba diving site.

For those readers that think our dogs sleep all the time, please have a look at the devastation of a poor defenseless trash bag that was left unattended. This occurred while we were enjoying a drink at the beach club ashore.

Our buddy boat, Rhumb Runner arrived soon thereafter and hosted us to a wonderful dinner. After consulting with the weather gods, we made plans to leave Vanuatu for Papua New Guinea. We checked out of the country on Monday with plans to leave on Tuesday. While clearing out near the downtown docks, we spotted a unique Polynesian-style double canoe catamaran. We chatted with the crew of five young men from Micronesia who are part of a conservation effort focused on education. The have made their way from Pohnpei (Micronesia) en route to Auckland, New Zealand. The vessel is beautiful, and the most fascinating feature is the heavy wooden tiller which is festooned with intricate carvings. The crew confessed that the most difficult part of the trip has been the hand steering (there is no autopilot) and their arms are quite exhausted!

We have become nautical nomads and are anxious to get moving again. Next stop: PNG!

August 4, 2023

Three Islands in Three Days

Epi, Awai, and Malekula

As we awoke and drank our morning coffee in Lamen Bay on Epi Island, we noticed a stream of small fishing boats loaded with local villagers attired in brightly colored garb and heading south. We learned they were destined for a nearby village which was hosting the Independence Day festivities. That left our village nearly deserted, with the exception of a local restaurateur named Benny, who had promised to host us for lunch at 12 o’clock sharp (this would give her time to take a truck to the next village in time for the party). We dinghied to shore with Rhumb Runner’s crew on time for our meal, which consisted of assorted local fare (chicken, cabbage, potato, fruit) with extensive use of coconut milk. She has limited propane, and commonly cooks over an open fire. There is little or no electricity here (a few small solar panels for an occasional light).

After lunch, we toured the nearly empty village and hiked along the local road looking for bananas and papayas. We found the latter but struck out on the former. We returned to Leviathan and prepared for our next sail.

The following day, we left Epi for the Island of Awai in the Maskelyne Island archipelago. This was a beautiful anchorage, but quite exposed to the heavy winds which were predicted to return soon. We met the local villagers who showed us around their home. We donated a soccer ball for the kids and reading glasses for the adults. In exchange, we received cucumbers, red string beans, and tomatoes.

Anticipating a blow, we left the following morning for the nearby island of Malekula, where we found a protected anchorage in Port Sandwich. We were told not to swim here due to sharks. The last recorded tourist death from a shark attack occurred in 2005, but unlucky local villagers occasionally fall prey, although these fatalities do not make the newswire. Apparently, an abattoir (slaughterhouse) was located here in the past, and the leftovers were dumped in the bay, selecting a population of aggressive sharks. Compounding the mystique, the water here is quite murky due to sediment from local streams. Suffice it to say that we did not go for a swim. We were a little tense on our day of departure when we had difficulty raising our anchor. I was afraid that I might have to dive on the chain to free it from obstruction. Fortunately, we were able to wriggle free without any aquatic heroics.

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